by mbl » Tue May 31, 2005 10:19 am
We just completed Globus' "Magnificent Europe" river cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest on the "Symphony" and offer anyone interested in a similar cruise the following: When we arrived at Schipol Airport we discovered that Globus has absolutely nothing to do with this cruise and had no staff on it. They subbed the whole thing out to Amadeus Waterways who pretty well botched the "meet and greet" at the airport leaving us to find their bus pickup area ourselves.
As a point of interest, the Symphony was built in the Netherlands; is owned by Lueftner Cruises, an Austrian Company; flies the German flag; and is under essentially permanent charter to Amadeus Waterways, an American company headquartered in Los Angeles. Our tour was booked by Globus through its Avalon Waterways subsidiary. Wonder how much of a slice of our money each of these entities got.
From the airport we were bussed to an out-of-the-way luxury hotel, the Okura. There we were met by a very inexperienced staff member that didn't know how to handle the people, available courtesy "refreshing rooms", baggage, etc. He was supposedly assisted by two other staff members who spent most of their time gabbing with each other instead of helping us. There wasn't even any courtesy tea and coffee, a minimum amenity that should have been supplied. We were instead directed to the hotel's coffee shop where "we could buy anything we wanted". .
The hotel's location precluded exploring Amsterdam on foot for many people because of its location far from the center of town. This was most inconsiderate of the tour operator since many of us arrived at about 9 AM and the ship was not to be ready until 4 PM. My wife and I are walkers so we left the hotel and walked to the center of town anyway -- must have covered 5 miles or more.
Once on the Symphony, everything changed. The staff was friendly, knowledgeable, efficient, and most courteous. The meals were excellent, plenty of variety and well-prepared. Red and white wines (bottomless glasses) were served with dinner every night on a three-day rotation -- you got the same wines every three days. This didn't bother us since they were generally good an went well with the dinners. Our Amadeus Cruise Director, Wade Korzan, was one of the best we ever had -- knowledgeable, considerate and well-organized.
Ship-board dress was casual, jeans and shirts. There was only one "formal" Captain's Dinner and that came about half-way through the cruise. It was requested that men wear jackets and ties, but this was not mandatory. People wore what they had and there were a lot of slacks and shirts visible. The farewell dinner was NOT formal at all. The only other night people got dressed up was for the optional concert in Vienna.
One negative was the inconsistent quality of the local guides. A few of those that we had were good, knowledgeable, understandable, considerate of their patrons, etc. Others were plain awful -- hard to understand and/or treated people poorly and/or talked too much about insignificant trivia that you couldn't wait to forget. When we got one of these on a walking tour we and other similarly-minded people usually left to explore on our own after making sure we knew the way back to the ship.
The departure was handled very efficiently and unlike other cruises we have been on, you didn't have to leave your cabin until 9 AM on the day of departure. My wife and I had booked three nights at a small Frommers-recommended hotel on the Buda side of the Danube in the Castle Hill district, the Astra Vendaghaz, and we went there directly from the ship. The hotel was great -- small, very quiet, refurbished 300 year old structure located 2 short blocks from the Danube, near restaurants and a concert hall where we attended a folklore evening, 2 1/2 short blocks to a transportation hub where you could catch trams, busses, underground and HEV railroad trains. Our room was spacious with a 10' ceiling and lots of storage space. One day we took the train to the small picturesque town of Szentendre on the Danube Bend section of the river --definitely worthwhile.
If we were to do this over, we would do it in the Budapest to Amsterdam direction because our last three stops were at three capital cities and were much more hectic than the rest of the stops. Doing these first would allow us to relax during the more liesurely pace of the rest of the trip. Overall, the pace of the trip was good and the sights fascinating. It was well worth taking and we enjoyed it immensely.
Hope this helps people contemplating this cruise.