by Guest » Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:29 pm
Ah, Budapest. Just glancing at my trip journal brings back so many memories. I'm going to edit it ruthelessly, but, still, this will be a long note.
We were in Budapest for two nights. Our hotel is a Radisson SAS Beke which is near the Octogon (sp?) Metro stop. It is also close to the RR station that Eiffel had something to do with.
We reached Budapest at about 3:30. We found an ATM across the street. The bank was confusing as there were a lot of ATM-like machines. I asked a young man which to use and he explained that some of the machines were for paying bills electronically. Back at the hotel, we bought a Budapest discount card (it doubles as a Metro pass) and tickets for a evening boat cruise for that night and a folklore shore for the next night.
We walked down our street towards the West End City Centre Mall. We didn’t get there (didn’t go far enough) but did see a railroad station. Stephen Spielberg is in Budapest making a film about the terrorism at the Munich Olmpics and he has been seen there. We, alas, did not see him. We did, however, see some guys whose job was to enter the intersection when it turned red and hold up billboard type signs. This was unusual and we started to take their photo. One of them had an entrepreneurial spirit and told us we could only do it if we gave them money. We instead kept walking. Dinner was an included fixed menu.
After dinner, we took the metro towards the river for our cruise. When we got out of the Metro, we had no idea which way to go so asked some people who were looking at a map. In retrospect, they were the wrong ones to ask since they needed to look at a map themselves. We eventually realized that we were going the wrong way, asked some more people for help, and got turned around. We hoofed it there and made it on time. The cruise was perfectly beautiful. The river is lined with beautiful spot-lit buildings such as the Parliament. One of the most striking sights was the illuminated Chain Bridge, a symbol of Budapest. Orchestrated with the trip was a video showing the interiors of the buildings and corresponding history. I remember thinking that this was one of the most magical moments of the trip.
On the way back to the hotel, we walked down Vaca Utca which, during the day, is a major shopping street. At night, it was a lovely area full of tourists.
Tuesday - September 6 - Budapest
This morning was a city tour of Budapest.
Our local tour guide is a local professor. One of the early stops was Hero’s Square which gives a history of the country in statues. When we got off the bus, local vendors gathered around our group. I bought a sweater set (it started at $25 and I got it for $15) and a set of postcards for a dollar.
We drove past his house on the way to Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion. On our way there, he told us that Buda is considered older and a sleepy town. Pest is for the younger set and has more nightlife. We got off the bus and walked along a street of lovely stores. Near the church and bastion, we stopped and were given information about them.
We were given free time to go into the church. Fisherman’s Bastion is on a hill and offers a spectacular overlook of the city. It was perfect for photos.
Some of the people from our tour are going for a lunchtime cruise on the river. We didn’t chose that so have the rest of the day free. The bus dropped us off downtown. We walked through a lovely park and then down a major shopping street. We both treated ourselves to a gelato.
Our goal was to end up at the Old Market. Oh my word! We could have spent all day there and did spend several hours. The lower floor was full of produce, paprika, and other foodstuffs. The upstairs was full of tourist souvenirs. We browsed through all the walkways while looking for the best prices on the things that caught our interest. After checking everything out, we stopped at the upstairs food court. My friend bought lunch but I was iffy about the choices. Instead I bought a Coke and ate some things that I had in my bag.
We discovered loads of sweater sets like the one I had bought at Hero’s Square and also cardigan type sweaters. We each bought one of those. I also bought a set of paprika, two leather purses, two fabric purses, two coin purses, and a chess set. I probably would have bought more but I again ran out of local currency.
We took the metro to the Opera House for a quick peek. We then caught it again for a brief visit to the Museum of Fine Arts.
We then took the Metro to the nearby Baths. We had debated on whether to go to the more touristy and upscale Gellert Baths or the one that the locals frequent. We ended up deciding to go to whichever was more convenient and it was the locals one. We paid and then went a circuitous route to figure out where to go next. We wanted to find out where they did the massages and asked many people who didn’t understand what we were asking and kindly directed us not necessarily in the right direction. We finally found the Thai Massage, but it was all booked up. Oh well. We then did much more looking to find the changing area. You could either share a dressing room and rent a locker or rent a personal dressing room which would be locked by an attendant. We did the latter. The attendant was a nice young man who spoke English. Halleluiah. He explained the procedure of how we could change, leave our things in the changing rooms and then call him to lock them for us. The young man came back and told us all about the option for MEDICINAL massage. It was cheaper than Thai massage and he recommended it. We were all for that. When we asked him where it was, he thought for a minute and then said he’d show us. He led us out of the changing area and into the pool area. It was huge! He was in flip flops and we were barefoot. I could hardly keep up with his pace. The area around the pools was floored with small, slippery, uneven tiles. I felt about a hundred years old as I tried to keep up. We kept going past the pools into another building filled with room after room of smaller thermal pools (think huge hot tub). . The massage area was in the depths of that building. We would never ever have found it on our own. After signing up and getting an appointment time to return, we went back outside to explore the pools.
The first pool was warm. In the center, was a circular area much like a really fast lazy river. You would get into the flow and go around and around without the use of floats. I suppose you could call it a non-lazy river. Inside the circle of that was a neck deep whirlpool area. If you got into that, you’d try to get a spot on a submerged bench where you were sprayed by jets of water spouting out of the seats. This water was also really warm.
After trying out those things, we went inside the building where the cabin attendant had led us so that we could try out some of the smaller thermal spring pools. The first thermal spring that we got in was really warm. We sat there for a while and then went on to the other rooms. One included a small rectangular pool packed with people in an exercise class. We tried out another thermal spring in the next room. The springs were marked with temperatures and I remember seeing 32 and 34 degrees Celsius on some. Eventually it was time for our massages.
Even though we had been back there once, we had fits trying to find it again. We walked in and out of a number of rooms a number of times. That place was like a maze. We kept worrying that we’d end up in a men’s locker room. Keep in mind that this is a large complex and very popular and very down-to-earth. We were by no means on the older side of the people there. People seemed very comfortable with their bodies and there were lots of not-so-young-men in Speedos who you’d just as soon not really look at if you know what I mean. Somehow I think that if we did end up in a men’s locker room, that no one except us would have really cared.
Anyway, we persevered and eventually did find our way back to the place where we’d signed up for massages. The attendant motioned us to wait on seats until it was our time. My massage was my first and likely my last. It was very deep and hurt. I was never so glad to see 15 minutes end and was extremely thankful that I had not splurged on a longer massage! My friend's was OK though. When we left, she asked if I was OK because my back was red. I was hoping that there was no permanent damage from our adventure!
We headed back to the hotel. We were going to walk to the next Metro stop but the walkway was closed due to reconstruction of the millennium pond. We backtracked to the stop by the baths. On the way, we saw a large number of men playing chess in the park. One interesting thing about the trains in Budapest is that stops are announced by a troll of music rather than a buzz.
After a quick change in the hotel, we walked to the Metro again. We caught the Metro at the Octogon stop. That area is beautiful. It is the oldest Metro stop and the walls are covered with beautiful woods. We took it a stop where you could transfer to other lines. There we went down and down again and then through a lo-o-ong corridor to the line we wanted.
Our evening’s entertainment was a Hungarian folklore show. We had a little trouble finding it but consulted the compass and made it on time. The show was very entertaining. I loved the gypsy violin music. The costumes and dancing were fun.
On the Metro, we were asked to show our tickets. Throughout our use of the Metro, we’ve noticed that it is more or less on the honor system. Our guide had pointed out earlier in the day that there would be more checks today since it is past the grace period of a new month and they are trying to catch those who do not get a new month’s ticket. They tend to target tourists.
Wednesday - September 7 – Budapest to Vienna
After breakfast, we had some free time before our bus left for Vienna so took a walk. First stop was the nearby railroad station. Now that we know that it was designed by Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame, we thought we should pay more attention. We also went into the McDonalds just to take photos. Speaking of McDonalds, this one has a sales window on the sidewalk. It also has a kiosk just inside the door with a limited menu. From there, we went to the large West End City Centre Mall. We headed there the other day but didn’t go far enough. This time, we almost missed it again and went too far. On the way, we realized that to cross the busy street, you are supposed to go down into the Metro and back out on the other side. The stores were closed, but we walked around for a while. It was a large multi-level mall similar to the one in Prague. From there, we walked back towards the hotel.